13 
Portman - where time stood still
Imagine a place where the Mediterranean Sea lazily rolls under the majestic cliffs, where the morning sun colors the surrounding hills golden and where the evening aperitif tastes like nowhere else in the world. Welcome to Portman, a charming town on the Costa Cálida that has retained an authentic Spanish charm despite its rich history.
Walking through the winding streets of Portman is like flipping through the pages of a history book. The ancient Romans already discovered rich deposits of silver and lead here, which shaped the life of the locals for centuries. The mining activity here was so significant that it literally reshaped the face of the local bay. Today, the former mines are silent witnesses to the industrial past and offer a fascinating insight into the history of Spanish mining.
Today's Portman is living proof of how a city can transform. The former industrial center has become a charming seaside resort, which, however, has retained its authenticity. Local fishermen go out to sea every morning, and in the evening you can taste their catch in the harbor restaurants - you've never eaten fresher seafood!
If we talk about food, we have to mention the local specialties. Traditional paella can be found around every corner, but the real treasures are the lesser-known dishes such as 'caldero', the typical fish dish of the area based on an old recipe. Michirones – a typical miner's dish of beans and ham – or Pescado a la sal – fish baked in a salt crust are also interesting. And what about the local tapas bars! Everyone has their secret recipe for marinated sardines or octopus in garlic. All this, of course, accompanied by an excellent local wine from the Murcia region - the Monastrell variety.
The area around Portman is a paradise for nature lovers. You can go for a hike along the coastal paths, where you can enjoy breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea. The beaches here are not crowded like in tourist resorts - you will find quiet bays where you will have the sea almost to yourself. Divers will appreciate the rich underwater life, and cyclists will appreciate the network of trails leading through the surrounding mountains.
Portman is also a great starting point for exploring the region. Historic Cartagena is only half an hour's drive away - its Roman theater and modernist architecture are well worth a visit. Calblanque Natural Park will enchant you with wild beaches and untouched nature. And if you crave more hustle and bustle, La Manga with its beaches and nightlife is also within easy reach
Want a piece of history?
Walking around Portman today, you would hardly guess that this picturesque town was once one of the most important mining centers in Spain. The history of mining here dates back to the times of the Phoenicians and Romans, who discovered rich deposits of silver, lead and zinc. The Romans built an extensive system of tunnels and shafts here, some of which can still be seen in the surrounding hills.
The real boom in mining occurred in the 19th century, when the Peñarroya company began to operate here. During the mining boom of the 1950s and 1960s, Portman became one of the largest producers of lead in Europe. Thousands of tons of ore were mined here daily, which had a dramatic impact on the surrounding landscape, and especially on the local bay.
The most visible remnant of the mining activity is the so-called black beach. Between 1957 and 1990, over 60 million tons of mine tailings were discharged into the bay. The original bay, which once extended more than a kilometer inland, was gradually filled with black sludge. This is how a unique, albeit ecologically problematic, black beach was created, which today is, paradoxically, a tourist attraction.
After mining ended in 1990, a long restoration process began. The Spanish government has invested millions of euros in cleaning up the area and reclaiming the landscape. Today, the seawater in the vicinity is already clean and safe for swimming, although the black beach remains a silent witness to the industrial past.
For lovers of industrial history, Portman offers several interesting routes - the Sierra Minera trail will take you through former mining areas, you can visit the remains of old mining buildings and engine rooms. You can also see the original freight tunnels and railway tracks. It is fascinating to watch how nature gradually takes back what man has taken from it.
You can also visit La Chapa Battery (Batería de La Chapa). A historic coastal fortress, this imposing military structure is an important part of Spain's cultural heritage and offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into the past. La Chapa Battery was built in the 18th century as part of an extensive defense system to protect the strategically important port of Cartagena and the surrounding coast from naval attacks. The fortress was part of an ambitious plan by King Charles III, who decided to strengthen the defenses of the Spanish coast.
The fort was strategically located on a rocky promontory overlooking Portman Bay, allowing troops to monitor and control shipping in the area. Due to its location, the battery could effectively defend access to the bay while communicating with other defenses in the region. The fort has a semi-circular shape which was designed to maximize the firepower of the guns towards the sea. The massive stone walls were built to withstand enemy fire and extreme weather conditions. Inside the fortress there were barracks for soldiers, ammunition stores, a water tank and other support spaces necessary for the operation of the military garrison. The most important part was the artillery platform, where heavy guns capable of hitting enemy ships at a considerable distance were placed.
As far as Portman is concerned, one of the most powerful events in modern history was the Roberto mine accident that occurred on November 26, 1968. In this tragedy, 15 miners died after a sudden burst of water into the mine shafts. The accident occurred in the early hours of the morning when the miners were working at a depth of approximately 300 meters underground. A sudden burst of underground water caused the flooding of several mine corridors, and despite an immediate rescue operation, it was not possible to save all the miners. This tragedy led to the tightening of security measures in local mines. Today, a memorial in downtown Portman commemorates this tragic event. The disaster had a profound impact on local society. Many families lost their breadwinners, family, friends. This also led to a tightening of safety measures in the mines, gradually leading to a re-evaluation of mining activity in the area and greater mining solidarity throughout Spain. Every year, a memorial service is held here to honor the memory of the deceased miners, and the memorial has thus become an important place for the local community and a reminder of the risks associated with mining activities.
So what do you say? Will you give this hidden treasure of the Spanish coast a chance? Trust us, you won't regret it. And who knows, maybe we'll meet here for a glass of excellent Spanish wine, with a view of the sunset over the Mediterranean Sea.
